Denman's sister island — home to Tribune Bay, Helliwell Provincial Park, and a vibrant arts community
Hornby Island sits just east of Denman Island, separated by Lambert Channel — a narrow strait rich with marine life. Known locally as "Little Hawaii" for its stunning white-sand beaches and warm summer waters, Hornby draws visitors from across British Columbia and beyond. It's one of the Northern Gulf Islands, part of the Comox Valley Regional District, and home to roughly 1,100 year-round residents whose numbers swell dramatically every summer.
Tribune Bay is the island's crown jewel — a long crescent of fine white sand backed by warm, shallow water that's regularly ranked among the best beaches in British Columbia. Tribune Bay Provincial Park protects the beach and surrounding forest, and on a hot summer day it's as close to a tropical experience as you'll find on the BC coast. Families spread blankets on the sand, kids build castles in the shallows, and the water stays warm enough for comfortable swimming well into September.
Beyond Tribune Bay, Hornby has smaller coves and rocky beaches tucked along its coastline — Whaling Station Bay on the south side, Tralee Point's tide pools, and the pebbly shores below Mount Geoffrey. Each offers different character depending on the tide and time of year.
At Hornby's eastern tip, Helliwell Provincial Park is one of the finest coastal hikes in the Gulf Islands. The 5-kilometre bluff trail follows dramatic sea cliffs high above the water, with views across the Strait of Georgia to the Coast Mountains on the mainland. In spring, the Garry oak meadows along the trail blaze with wildflowers — blue camas, chocolate lilies, and sea blush. Below the cliffs, harbour seals haul out on the rocks, and bald eagles ride the updrafts. From the bluffs, it's common to spot humpback whales spouting offshore during summer and fall.
Ford Cove is Hornby's small harbour on the island's south side, home to a marina, a general store, and the island's fuel dock. It's also where Captain Pat can pick you up or drop you off by water taxi — a much more scenic arrival than the ferry, and often more convenient when the summer lineups get long.
Like Denman, Hornby has a thriving arts community. Potters, painters, jewellers, and woodworkers have made Hornby home for decades. The annual summer studio tour is a highlight — you can visit working artists in their studios, watch glass being blown, and pick up one-of-a-kind pieces. The Hornby Island Co-op store is the social hub, and the island's farmers' market runs on Saturdays through the summer season.
The waters around Hornby Island are some of the richest in the Strait of Georgia. Humpback whales feed on herring and krill off the island's eastern shores from June through October. Bigg's (transient) killer whales patrol the coastline year-round, hunting harbour seals and sea lions. At Norris Rocks, between Hornby and Chrome Island, hundreds of Steller sea lions haul out through fall, winter, and spring — one of the most impressive wildlife spectacles on the coast. During the late-winter herring spawn, Lambert Channel turns milky turquoise as billions of herring eggs coat the kelp and rocks.
The standard route is by BC Ferries: drive to Buckley Bay on Vancouver Island, take the ferry to Denman Island, drive across Denman, then catch a second ferry from Gravelly Bay to Hornby's Shingle Spit. It's a scenic journey, but summer weekends can mean long waits at both terminals — plan to arrive early or travel mid-week.
Alternatively, Captain Pat offers water taxi service directly to Hornby Island from Denman, Deep Bay, or other points along the Baynes Sound coast. It's faster, more flexible, and you get to arrive by boat — which is really the best way to see any island.
Tribune Bay for white sand and warm swimming. Whaling Station Bay for quieter shores and tide pools. Little Tribune for a smaller, sheltered option with calm water.
Helliwell Provincial Park bluff trail (5 km). Mount Geoffrey Escarpment trail through old-growth forest. Spectacular birdwatching year-round.
Summer studio tours, Saturday farmers' market, the legendary Hornby Island music festival. Galleries and craft shops open throughout the season.
The Cardboard House Bakery is a Hornby institution. Jan's Café for island fare. Fresh seafood, wood-fired pizza, and farm-to-table dining in summer.
Captain Pat offers water taxi service to Hornby Island — skip the ferry lineups and arrive in style. Or combine your Hornby visit with a fishing charter or sightseeing tour through Lambert Channel, past Chrome Island lighthouse and the Norris Rocks sea lion colony.